![]() ![]() I then print it out full size on large format paper and transfer marks to the wood. To lay out the pattern, I first draw it in a CAD program that I use, DeltaCad. I pattern my work after the style of Jim Adkins which emphasizes realistic reproductions of Native American basket designs. If you search for Harvey Meyer, his work is an excellent example of that style. One is a design made popular by the late David Nittmann where the beads are divided into even rows and columns of tiles and colored with India ink or paints. There are basically two schools of thought on creating the beading design. For turning large thin piece like this, you also will need a thick leather glove to steady the wood while beading it. The thickness also needs to be realistic. The beading and patterns on the front and back need to match closely for realism. The piece below is 14½" diameter, about 3" deep, and about ¼" thick at the top of the beads and scary thin between the beads. It seems to be hard to find in large sizes so you're on your own on that. The wood that I use is maple, preferably hard maple. You will also need ink refills, nibs, and possibly other supplies like toners and fine line pens for detail work. There are many sources, but has the best selection and prices by far. For example, on the Navajo Wedding Basket design shown below I used Burnt Sienna for the red and Dark Bark for the black. I use Copic Original (Classic) markers with super fine nibs for coloring the patterns and select colors that closely emulate original Native American materials used in weaving. Plan on also investing a lot of time refining your skills in this area. Years ago, I took a woodburning class from Andi Wolfe and more recently I took a class from Janice Levi. ![]() If you haven't done any pyrography before, you really ought to take at least one class to learn the skills that separate scorching wood from drawing on wood. ![]() For the herringbone rim I use a medium size DetailMaster skew pen, but Optima has similar skew pens. You will also need an assortment of other pens. Since then they have also created additional bead burning pens to match other sizes of D-Way beading tools. I think that their bead burning pen is even better than the old DetailMaster pen. Fortunately, after several of us who did basket illusion pieces discussed this online, Harvey Meyer contacted PJL Enterprises, the company that makes the Optima 1 burner and pens and they created a special pen that precisely matches the ⅛" D-Way beading tool profile. When DetailMaster went out of business, there weren't any good options. They were a special order item and hard to get, but they were the best by a long shot. ![]() Originally, I used DetailMaster bead burning pens. There are two sizes that I use, ⅛" and ³⁄ 16" My first couple pieces were done with Sorby beading tools, but they really aren't well adapted to this purpose. It's the Vim/Emacs of 3d modelling software, and comes with all the luggage of both (lots of sweet keyboard action, modes, obscure awesome functionality, custom stuff, addons, halfbaked things you can't live without.For beading, the tools from D-Way are by far the the best. It's an awesomely maintained project, with lots of great and knowledgable devs, great documentation, code quality, plenty of features, unmoderated and sh*tty user communities.Īnd it's blazingly fast. Blender takes a lot of time and effort investment to get it running, but the return is incredible. have 3 free days to get productive? Want to make fancy models with bells and whistles? Want to laugh at your CAD friends who can't get stuff 3d printed due to outrageous topology created by their tool? Python scripting - sounds cool? Like women who play Starcraft and can dress adequately? There is a corresponding Python library if that Fortran-chair-wienerdog crossbreed of a language OpenScad uses drives you nuts. if you never want to have anything to do with 3d graphics, and just want to make a few designs and learn a piece of software to be comfortable with, try this one: įor 2d stuff you can try LibreCad, it has good tutorials on yt. You'll save a lot of time and get a reliable result you wouldn't be able to produce anyway. if you want to learn software just to make a single project and forget everything afterwards - get someone else do it. Well, it's a bit like bringing a gatling gun to a knife fight, loaded up with 10K of white phosphorous tracer rounds ![]()
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